is the traditional home of the Bornholm speciality Sol over Gudhjem: a smoked herring fillet on rye bread, topped with radish, dill, a little mound of salt, and a raw egg yolk. you can watch the artisans dive into the smoky chamber above an open fire and pull out rods hung with golden-smoked herrings, the so-called “Bornholmers”. The local hot-smoking technique is the reason why many old fishing cottages on the island have unusual pyramid-shaped chimneys. Eating freshly smoked herring while still lukewarm is special, and at £5.40 not too expensive. You can eat it at tables outside in the harbour as you watch the ferries go out to the tiny island of Christiansø. Gudhjem has often been judged the island’s most beautiful village, and it is a great place to break up a round-trip.